
TRIESTE-JOYCE
10 days in Trieste.
20th October - 30th October 1904
Famously, Joyce’s relationship with Trieste began briefly and chaotically. He arrived with Nora by train on October 20th 1904. He was 22; he’d met Nora four months earlier, (June 16th).
On arrival, Joyce left Nora in the square by the station and went off in search of the school where he thought he had a job. Typical of Joyce, he then managed to get himself arrested by interfering in a drunken rumpus between some sailors and the police. Thinking he could impress and resolve the situation with his Italian only resulted in his own arrest. After an over night stay in jail leaving Nora stranded in the square, he was finally released and re united with Nora.
They found a hotel for the first 2 nights then a room to rent. But the job which he thought was his, was in fact not available. Thus their first Triestian encounter was over. They were advised to travel down the coast to Pola where there was another English school and a chance of employment.
10 years in Trieste – 1905 to 1915
Joyce would return in March 1905 and stay until the outbreak of WW1 in 1915. In this time he would leave it only briefly six times, three to Dublin one each to Pola, Rome and Zurich. Joyce fell in love with the city almost immediately and would call it home; he would also write the bulk of his major works here, most significantly Ulysses. It was from his first apartment overlooking the Canal Grande on the Ponterosso with its grand ships, that he first felt the impact of Trieste.
After two centuries of war against the nearby major power, the Republic of Venice, (who occupied it briefly from 1369 to 1372), the burghers of Trieste petitioned Leopold III von Habsburg, Duke of Austria to become part of his domains. The citizens, however, maintained a certain degree of autonomy well until the 17th century. Trieste grew into an important port and trade hub. It was constituted a free port within the Austrian domains by Emperor Charles VI and remained a free port from 1719 until July 1; 1891. The city was occupied by French troops three times during the Napoleonic Wars, in 1797, 1805 and 1809. In the latter occasion it was annexed to the Illyrian Provinces by Napoleon.
In the beginning of the 20th century, Trieste was a buzzing cosmopolitan city frequented by artists such as Italy Svevo and Umberto Saba. The city was part of the so-called Austrian Riviera and a very real part of Mitteleuropa. The particular Friulian dialect, called Tergestino, spoken until the beginning of the 19th century, had been gradually supplanted by Triestine (i.e. a Venetian dialect) and other tongues, including Italian, German and Slovenian. While Triestine was the language of the major part of the population, German was the language of the Austrian bureaucracy.
San Nicolo was soon to become the centre of Joyce’s world, it would not only be where he lived, but also where he worked at the English Berlitz School.
Trieste was the envy of most for its theatres and Joyce frequented them often. Amongst the productions he was to see were some of Ibsen’s work, of which he was a keen student. As an 18 year old in Dublin, Joyce had written a review of one of Ibsen’s plays which was published; that had both made him the envy of his peers and also added to his sense of being special. This was later added to, when Ibsen himself wrote to Joyce thanking him for his favourable review. Joyce would write again to Ibsen, but shortly after moving to Italy, (something Ibsen had done himself), Ibsen died in 1906. But an idea of a linear breach from Ibsen to Joyce is certainly within bounds of literary possibility.
Not only did Joyce admire Ibsen’s work, he was greatly influenced by it. The self exile of both writers is an obvious connection; but also the striving for social realism in drama and the diving into the human unconscious are both very vital and vibrant aspects of both their works.
Joyce was surrounded by theatre. He was also surrounded by music, Trieste was a mini Vienna in terms of its musical culture, Toscanini, Martuci, and Nikish all conducted there, as well as Mahler. Caruso also sang there and its opera was first class, indeed Verdi was a son of Trieste.
Famously, Trieste had its own unique dialect. This “hotch potch” language appealed to Joyce, he himself could speak 18 languages so he was drawn to Triestean dialect. He would later use much of it in his language of Finnegan’s Wake,
“The borborayellers, blohablasting tegolhuts up to tetties and ruching sleetsoff the coppeehouses”
This is a mix of Joycean and Triestean to form a perfect alliteration and a bringing to life what the locals called “The Bora”, a wind that raged through Trieste in the winter.
Another feature of Trieste that Joyce hungered for was the food. Its Austrian confectionary was something he always missed if he was away. There was a particular confectioners and café he favoured in the square, by the Piccolo offices where he would have many articles published. He also had an apartment near the newspaper and delivered several lectures on Hamlet from a nearby lecture hall. The hospital where his son was born was also close by.
Joyce was a citizen of the British Empire and Irishman living in the Austrian empire, a foreigner in a foreign land. His breakfast of the inner organs was standard fare in Trieste, a meal famous for its consumption by Bloom in Ulysses.
The official symbol of the city was the melon-
“He kissed the plump mellow yellow mellow melons of her rump, on each plump melonious hemisphere, in their mellow yellow furrow which obscure prolonged provocative melonsmellonous osculation”
There are three churches that form a neat triangle around San Nicolo where Joyce had lived and worked, a Serb orthodox, a Greek orthodox, and a Catholic church. All are grande and were often frequented by Joyce.
Trieste was often referred to at this time as an immoral city with its red light areas and prostitution. Some say it was worse than Moscow and Berlin; Joyce certainly frequented these areas and used them often in his writing.
“ not to wander be working around jerumsalemdo ( Jerusalem ) at small hours about the murketpots ( fruitmarkets ) smelling okey( sweet smelling) bony, this little ( vagina) figgy and arraky( how nice they are) belloky this littltle pink(little finger) into porker but, porkodirto, to let the gentlemen pedestarollies(pederasts)) out of monabella(beautiful vagina) culculpuration(nice arses)”
Joyce may have wandered the churches by day, but by night you would find him in the various bars. Whisky, wine and absinthe were his favourite tipples.
“Jim went out at night until two or three in the morning ranging from one Smokey pot house to another and then came in falling about the place”
Sometimes his brother would find him in a gutter and carry him home.
“A good puzzle would be to cross Dublin without passing a pub”
Most of the bars that Joyce frequented are now sadly gone.
“Joyce was never a belligerent drunk but rather a floppy public one. As he weighed so little he was often carried home and put to bed by friends. When he awoke he would complain about his eyes or whatever but was never surly”
“One day while teaching he slumped to the ground without a word the family from an impeccable middle class urgently sent for a doctor in panic, he diagnosed alcohol poisoning complicated by malnutrition”
“We will give our superfluous wealth to the poor,” was a Venetian statement of the times, brilliantly used by local Triestian socialists and one Joyce would certainly have known. He would have had ample chance to mix with and debate with socialists at this time and indeed saw himself as one. He certainly would have been more taken to it than the nationalism of his own country. Later of course during WW1 whilst in Zurich, Joyce would meet Lenin. What they thought about each other is the theme of a Tom Stoppard play.
“A nation?” says Bloom. A nation is the same people living in the same place”
Lack of money gave Joyce a constant state of stress in this ten year period as, although he finished writing Dubliners here as well as Portraight….. and the bulk of Ulysses, it wasn’t until 1915 that he had anything published. So his teaching at the school and some private tuition brought in some income, as did the writing for the newspaper and 12 lectures he gave, but he depended ever more on benefactors.
For the period July 1906 to March 1907 money was tight, so he moved Nora and Giorgio to Rome where he worked in a bank as a way of earning extra money while Stanilaus stayed behind in Trieste. This failed however and they returned to Trieste as poor as ever. They were back on San Nicolo. Joyce was happy to be back to what he called ‘home’, having not taken to Rome at all.
“I cannot begin to give you the flavour of the old auster and hungrig empire it was a ramshackle affair but it was charming and gay I experienced more kindness in Trieste than ever before or since in my life times past cannot return but I wish they were back they called the Austrian empire a ramshackle empire I wish there were more such empires.”
“The Irishman O’Connell was made a freeman of the Trieste when he sucked the king’s wound clean after he was stabbed in the neck with a dagger which was feared poisoned “
Despite the lectures for the university and the articles for the newspaper, Joyce still really relied on his part-time teaching salary for income, so 1907 proved another financial struggle. More so now they were four, with the birth of Joyce’s second child, his daughter Lucia.
To add to his troubles, he caught rheumatic fever in July as a result of drunken nights in the gutter. He was in hospital for a month and convalescing for a further 3 months.
When Nora was released from hospital with little Lucia, they were so poor that they were actually given money from the hospital poor box.
That summer was perhaps the lowest point. Nora was very ill and took to bed after the birth of Lucia and Joyce was still convalescing. They were totally poverty stricken, and still there wasn’t any of Joyce’s work being published.
Increasingly Nora was bad tempered and she made little secret of her hatred of their poverty stricken state and Jim’s drinking. Their arguing got to extreme states at times. Their relationship was to stay strained through 1908 into 1909 but they still enjoyed a very active sexual life, as can be seen by the so called “dirty” letters.
Joyce regards with equanimity every possible sexual act that is freely chosen; but he does not stop there. His interest in the body is also a moral stance, taken up against the orthodox Christian hostility to “mere” flesh. It is by woman’s flesh, and especially her secret inner parts, that a world fallen into negation can be redeemed. At the same time, Joyce is fascinated by woman’s double nature, combining the carnal with the transcendent. His sexual epiphanies are moments when the woman displays both qualities intensely and simultaneously. The whore in Portrait, for example, is a priestess of the body. A real priest would raise the host up to heaven then bring it down into the mouth of the communicant, who kneels below him. But the whore puts something even more potent into Stephen’s mouth: her own tongue, in a direct communion of flesh with flesh.
In the vision of the bird-girl, and in the erotic letters to Nora, Joyce excites himself with a sacred love-object who displays for him her profane functions of excretion; the most intense sexual experience is one that mingles, sacrilegiously, the most exalted with the most vulgar. Yet Joyce’s sexuality remains Catholic, in the sense of universal: it includes every possible means of communion between men and women, whether high or low. His letter to Nora of 2 December 1909 is a classic expression of his need to reconcile sacred and profane love: “side by side and inside this spiritual love I have for you there is also a wild beast-like craving for every inch of your body, for every secret and shameful part of it, for every odour and act of it.”
July 1909 he left for Dublin with Giorgio. The principal reason for the trip was to attempt to get Dubliners published; but he would also visit his father and Nora’s parents in Galway, who had not seen Giorgio. He would part fund the trip by pretending he was a journalist for the Piccolo newspaper and blagging a free train journey.
The three years between 1909 and 1912 were the most frustrating of Joyce’s life. He had a constant struggle to have his work published and journeyed to Dublin three times fruitlessly. In these journeys he was to discover that Trieste was now home.
“Oh how I shall enjoy the journey back! Every station will be bringing me nearer to my soul’s peace. O how I shall feel when I see the castle of Miramar among the trees and the yellow quays of Trieste! Why is it I am destined to look so many times in my life with my eyes of longing on Trieste”
Also, in that first trip back to Ireland, he encountered Cosgrave who informed Joyce, “he had gone on long walks in the darkness along the river bank with Nora”. Joyce immediately wrote a number of nasty accessory letters to Nora even asking whether Giorgio was in fact his son. Nora took her own good time in replying and when she did she made no attempt to deny or apologise. This fall out between them was mended and from it came the famous dirty letters.
By now Trieste and Nora merged as one in his mind. Trieste was the city that had offered him and his family a home; Nora was the woman who continued to have faith in him and stood by him. Together they represented home.
Cinema had arrived in Trieste in 1905 and soon they had several flourishing around the city. Joyce saw it as an art form to be welcomed and Nora often spent an afternoon at the matinee. It is quite clear that if he’d lived in the latter half of the 20th century, Joyce would have written for the movies, as his work would have been a sure fire hit on the movie screen. As it was, Joyce felt Dublin, with a half a million people was a ready made cinema audience, so in 1909 he went into business to open the first cinema in Dublin. It was a success, but somehow Joyce failed to make any of the money it created and his partnership was dissolved. It would seem Joyce was cheated in some way.
Again money problems rolled into 1910. Giorgio stopped Stanislaus in the street at one point, declaring:
“We had no dinner today. Keep that in your head”
Joyce was now also suffering greatly with his eyes. His spending habits continued to be absurd. In March he bought a piano costing the equivalent of three months rent. He and his brother nearly came to blows over that one.
“The familiar shortage of money did not stop Nora from dressing as well as their credit with tailors and dressmakers would allow”
In 1910, Joyce’s sisters Eva and Eileen came over from Ireland to help Nora with the children. They were both devout Catholics and put enormous pressure on Joyce to be married for the sake of the children. Also, at this time they took on a live-in servant, Maria Kirn, which, considering their financial plight and that there were already three women living in the house, seemed a strange decision.
“Joyce would come up to Stanislaus smiling, cigar sticking out of the corner of his mouth and ask him for money, “ not a penny more” then Joyce would begin talking about his book and his writing and Stannie would come through “just don’t ask me for money for a year and I’ll be able to pay for the publication myself!”
When he did get money from something such as an article published, he spent it at the opera!
After his last fruitless trip to Dublin to try to get the Dubliners published and failing, he would leave Ireland in October 1912 and never return.
Joyce gave 12 lectures between November and February 1913 on Monday nights at the university.
A friend of Joyce’s, Prezioso, was to cause problems for Joyce and Nora when he declared his love for Nora, “the sun has risen for you”.
Nora instantly rebuked his advances and told Joyce who sought him out and gave him a public dressing down. Whereupon Prezioso burst into tears! There has been some suggestion that Prezioso’s real intent was Joyce himself.
“The bodily possession of Nora would bring into almost carnal contact the two men to be united without dissatisfaction and degradation –to be united man to man as man to woman”
Giacomo is Italian for James. A 16 page hand written novelette written by Joyce between 1911 and 1914 and left behind in Trieste when he moved to Paris was called Giacomo Joyce. Although never meant for publication, it is an extraordinary piece of artistic creative work written in both Italian and English.
The young ladies that Joyce tutored in English were highly educated and independent, with a range of qualities not always common in woman of their age. They were emancipated young woman who showed little interest in religion and who were aware of their intellectual and sexual attraction. Two who undoubtedly made an impact on Joyce were Emma Cuzzi and Amelia Popper.
“I was anything but a diligent student and so Jam Joyce who as my teacher was far from traditional was my favourite”
Meanwhile Giorgio and Lucia, both now bespectacled, attended the local school and were very successful students, as well as being popular with other children in throughout. They did suffer from the fact that their father’s interest in them was fleeting, given his total absorption in his writing. Nora also, while she loved her children, was not a particularly attentive mother and a lot of their upbringing fell to Joyce’s sister, Eileen.
With Joyce’s income increasing though the private tuition they should have been more comfortable, but all he did was increase his spending. James and Nora were dreadful housekeepers and had no intention to change. They spent excessively on luxuries, meals out, theatre, cinema, opera and were fond of buying on credit.
In 1913, Joyce would finally find a benefactor and admirer of his work resulting in his work finally receiving its true recognition.
This man was Ezra Pound. He told Joyce that Yeats had been speaking to him about his writing and that he could serialise Dubliners in an American magazine. When Joyce followed this up with Portrait of an Artist, Pound declared it, “damn fine stuff”
Finally, after a struggle that would have killed off most writers he was published in June 1914. With Dubliners being published, Joyce was finally able to put the two books of his youth behind him. And begin the epic of his life Ulysses.
In 1920 Joyce said of Ulysses:
“The epic of two races Israel and Ireland”
Trieste itself played a key role in informing Joyce’s sense of Jewishness. The city’s Jewish population, its synagogue, shops and businesses were the very fabric from which he wove Bloom.
How saddened would Joyce have been then, when in 1942 after Italy switched their allegiance in WW2 to the allies and the Nazis annexed Trieste for the 3rd Reich and set up the only concentration camp in Italy.
After the landing of the Allies in southern Italy in July 1943 and the Italian surrender on 8 September, the southern parts of the country were liberated, but northern Italy remained under German control. The majority of the Jews who had decided against leaving the country, lived here. The Italian army disbanded and German forces ruled the new fascist satellite "Republica Sociale Italiana". The Germans established some of the coastal areas of the Adriatic Sea.
One of the Italian concentration camps was the Risiera di San Sabba, a former rice mill on the outskirts of Trieste. The buildings were constructed in 1913 and had already been empty for years, when the Germans confiscated them. The facility was first used as a prison. In October 1943, it was converted into a Polizeihaftlager (police concentration camp). The premises were well suited for such a camp. Three high buildings (3, 4 and 6 storeys) included cells, storage rooms, dressmaking and shoe-making shops and SS quarters. The high old chimney, in combination with the enlarged old oven, was used for cremating thousands of victims. The crematory installations were planned and built under the supervision of Erwin Lambert, the "flying architect" of T4. He had already built the gas chambers at the six euthanasia centres in Germany and Austria and the three extermination camps of Aktion Reinhard in Poland. The crematory was tested on 4 April 1944 by the burning of 70 corpses. From 20 October 1943 until early 1945 around 25,000 partisans and Jews were interrogated and tortured within the camp. 3,000-5,000 of them were killed, either by shooting, beating or in gas vans.
Globocnik's staff mainly consisted of mainly Germans. From October 1943 until May 1944 SS-Obersturmbannführer Christian Wirth was camp commander. As he was killed by partisans on 26 May 1944, SS-Obersturmbannführer Dietrich Allers became commandant until the dissolution of the camp in April 1945.
In late April 1945 Yugoslav partisans prepared to conquer Trieste. As a consequence, on 29 April the Germans blew up the chimney and the crematory in order to cover up the traces of their crimes. The staff went into hiding. Some of them were sentenced in absence but never faced justice in a "San Sabba Trial".
Jews first arrived in Trieste in 1236. They were always welcomed and made to feel part of the city, “they are creatures of God”
“The alleged purity of the Jewish race is visionary and not substantiated by scientific observation there are just as many differences amongst the Jews as there are among the various races and peoples of the European continent”
Joyce created, “his Jew from a blend of sources and origins combining Gaelic Jew and Greek”.
“In Joyce’s Trieste Freud’s work and psycho-analytical theory was discussed animatedly. Whilst in Italy Freud’s ideas met with considerable opposition in Trieste they took root with relative ease “
Later in Zurich his daughter Lucia would be treated by Freud’s great pupil Jung
Another major writer of influence at this time was the Jew Weininger who wrote:
“just as the woman is the negative force of every human being so is the Jew, he was so unable to escape his idea of jewishness as the mark o a diseased individual that he committed suicide in the same room that Beethoven had died in”
Bloom resolves these unconscious battles and finds an acceptance of self through imaginative action. His triumph is to accept the other dark side of himself which in its own way is both psychoanalytical and Freudian as well as giving us a link to Ibsen’s work.
Trieste was also the forefront of Italian Zionism. It was known as the port of Zion for the numbers passing through on their way to the USA and Palestine.
“The Jew hates the Jew inside him”
Joyce pointed to the fact that Gaelic was oriental in origin and therefore similar to Jewish language. Also their religions were very similar and ultimately both were disposed from their homelands.
The assignation of Archduke Ferdinand by the Bosnian student Princip in Sarajevo June 28th 1914 was to change everything. By September the school was closed and most of his private students had left Trieste. Joyce’s source of income was drying up rapidly, but Joyce hung on without income into 1915. In January, Stanislaus was interned by the Austrian authorities and he would remain imprisoned for the duration of the war. In May 1915 Eileen married a banker at San Gusto. A week later, Italy entered the war and Trieste was plunged into chaos. Riots broke out across the city between Italian and Austrian factions.
Joyce seemed almost oblivious to the chaos, continuing to work on Ulysses into June. By July, almost everyone he knew had left and there was little alternative to do the same.
He left with Nora and the two children on a train to Zurich on June 27th 1915.
They would return after the war in October 1919, but by now Trieste had changed into an Italian city and had been badly damaged by the conflict. The heart had been ripped from Trieste for Joyce and he never settled again.
He left again by train with Nora and the children in July 1920, heading for Paris. In leaving Trieste, Joyce was moving from a city were he had “found the rock of Ithaca and on the sea the sail of Ulysses”
James Joyce born Feb 1882
Meets Nora Barnacle in Dublin in June 1904 aged 22
Goes to Italy in October 10904
Initially stays in Trieste for 10 days, returning in March 1905 and stays there until June 1915
He lived in Trieste from the age of 23 to 33.
In this time he lived and worked mainly around the Via Nicolo where he also frequented the cafes such as Tomassan and Stella Picola.
He wrote several articles for the Trieste newspaper, the Piccolo
He gave 12 lectures at the University on Hamlet
In 1905 Giorgio was born - Via Nicolo and in 1907 Lucia was born - the hospital
He wrote Dubliners and had it published while in Trieste
He also wrote a Portrait of the Artist as a Young Man
And began the bulk of Ulysses
He also used the unique Triestian dialect to form the language for Finnegan’s Wake.
He left Trieste when Italy entered WW1 and went to Zurich where amongst others he met Lenin. He returned briefly to Trieste in 1909 but it wasn’t the place he’d grown to call home, and Paris was becoming the centre of the European literary world; so he left for Paris in 1920 were he stayed until the outbreak of WW2 when again he went to Zurich in 1939 where he died in 1940.
Trieste was at this time 80% Italian although ruled by Austria.
From 1918-1943 it was Italian
From 1943 to 1945 it was controlled by the Nazis
From 1945 when it was 1st liberated by the Yugoslavs’ it passed into allied hands and was administered by the Americans until 1955 when it went back into Italy.
If you include the time when it was taken by Napoleon it has been ruled by the French, Italians, Germans, Yugoslavs, Americans, Austrians, & Nazis
It is currently Italian.
It now borders Slovenia which is only 8 miles away.